Toloache: 251 W. 50th (Bet 8th and Bway), Midtown
Toloache gets its moniker from a Mexican flower, supposedly used in the creating love potions. Call me a disbeliever, but I'd bet on the potency of tequila before the flower. Flower or not, I love Toloache. As far as this gringa can tell, the food is authentically Mexican, with clearly decipherable ingredients, a sharpness of flavor, and freshness of ingredients that I think Rick Bayless would appreciate in crusading for the cuisine. There don't seem to be any bad dishes on the menu, unless "bad" means walking a little sideways from one of their potent cocktails. I've had the "Tacos de Pescado" (fish tacos) a few times and enjoy the small, but satisfying portions of all dishes from ceviches to salads. Despite the tired ubiquity of guacamole in Mexican cuisine, Toloache's trio of guacs manages to resuscitate the classic with three distinct versions using incremental spice: traditional (cilantro, tomato, onion) fruit-packed (with pomegranate, peaches, mango, and habanero), and spicy (red onion, chipotle, and queso fresco). You'd be un burro to dismiss this as just another "Tex-Mex" restaurant or a margarita bar. Given the fact that they have an intimidating list of tequilas, my recommendation is to go for the food and stay for the drink (my dad likes the Bohemia beer...he enjoys pronouncing the "soft b"). If only Gabriel Garcia Bernal would join me in imbibing one of those intoxicating Toloache potions...
Jul 9, 2008
The Aris-tocracy: Grill 21
Grill 21: 346 E. 21st St. (bet 1st & 2nd), Gramercy
When eating like a rockstar, it helps to have an adventurous spirit and an insider connection. Fortunately for me, the insider connection came via my world traveler friend and fellow foodie, Bea. Her friend, Aris (the happiest human on the planet) is Executive Chef at Grill 21 where he’s charged with preparing familiar Filipino fare. Last night he demystified the cuisine, leading me on a full-fledged tour-de-eat. We ordered a deliciously milky concoction, Ginataang Sitaw & Kalabasa (string beans and squash sauteed in coconut milk with shrimp) followed by liempo--tender, heavenly bite-sized pieces of grilled pork. For dessert, we gobbled down Halo-Halo. Translating to "mix mix," this colorful dessert comes in the form of a trifle: lavender-colored Ube ice cream tops milky shaved ice, and a cocktail of flan, sugary beans and gelatin cubes. As a finale, Chef Aris serenaded me on guitar, playing his rendition of Queen's greatest hits. I have no doubt that Freddie Mercury would have loved the food and the cover. Aris, You're Best My Friend. Save Me from your food.
Low-Key Aoki: Lunchtime lounging for the Weary Office Set
Aoki: 234 W. 48th St. bet. 8th Ave. and Broadway (Midtown)
I used to think that midtown was the armpit of Manhattan. I’ve skipped, walking, ran, biked, Rollerbladed and subwayed my way to work at Rock Center. No matter the method of transport or how quickly my commute, it always felt like I was entering a geographic vise—a compact matrix of dark-suited business people and rogue food deliverers all in one dirty air zone. It took some time for me to warm up to the area, but eventually I learned to appreciate the convenience and perks of working in center city or, “the pit” and began to find my nosh niche. Using my acute sense of smell and innate stealth, I quickly maneuvered past my beloved cafeteria noodle bowl, outside of my Lego land skyscraper and around the enormous deli buffets to the good stuff, the hidden restaurant scene. Aoki, it turns out, was to be my first beacon of hope. This calming Japanese oasis feels large and airy with a trickling waterfall and a colorful anime mural. The lunch specials are even more refreshing: Salad or soup and a choice of two rolls for $11 or the same with choice of three rolls for $13. There is usually no wait and the speedy service ensures a timely, if undesirable, return to the office. Yes, Grasshopper, you have learned well.
I used to think that midtown was the armpit of Manhattan. I’ve skipped, walking, ran, biked, Rollerbladed and subwayed my way to work at Rock Center. No matter the method of transport or how quickly my commute, it always felt like I was entering a geographic vise—a compact matrix of dark-suited business people and rogue food deliverers all in one dirty air zone. It took some time for me to warm up to the area, but eventually I learned to appreciate the convenience and perks of working in center city or, “the pit” and began to find my nosh niche. Using my acute sense of smell and innate stealth, I quickly maneuvered past my beloved cafeteria noodle bowl, outside of my Lego land skyscraper and around the enormous deli buffets to the good stuff, the hidden restaurant scene. Aoki, it turns out, was to be my first beacon of hope. This calming Japanese oasis feels large and airy with a trickling waterfall and a colorful anime mural. The lunch specials are even more refreshing: Salad or soup and a choice of two rolls for $11 or the same with choice of three rolls for $13. There is usually no wait and the speedy service ensures a timely, if undesirable, return to the office. Yes, Grasshopper, you have learned well.
Jul 7, 2008
Vezzo: Mayor of Shroomtown:
Vezzo 178 Lexington @ 31st (Murray Hill)
When it comes to pizza, I’m an absolute die-hard thin crust-er. Vezzo, one of three sister Italian restaurants (along with Posto and Gruppo) makes exceptional thin crust pizza. Thankfully for me, all three are on the east side. One pie in particular, the “shroomtown,” is in a class of its own. While most gourmet mushroom pizzas I’ve tried are “white” (sauceless), this fabulous fungi-filled one packs more flavor with a triple dose of mushrooms (portobello, shitake and button) on a bed of marinara, cheese and truffle oil, which I like to refer to as the white glove treatment. The spice of the marinara and earthiness of the truffle oil meld beautifully with the mushroom trio. You can also create custom pies (starting at $6.50 for 9’’ or $13.00 for large 16”) from a selection of three different sauces and a variety of fresh toppings. Vezzo offers a small, but choice selection of wines, beers (3 on tap and a few Belgians by the bottle) and classic sodas like ginger beer. They also deliver everyday until 10pm, but the booths are comfortable enough to make you stay put and hold your horses for a few.
When it comes to pizza, I’m an absolute die-hard thin crust-er. Vezzo, one of three sister Italian restaurants (along with Posto and Gruppo) makes exceptional thin crust pizza. Thankfully for me, all three are on the east side. One pie in particular, the “shroomtown,” is in a class of its own. While most gourmet mushroom pizzas I’ve tried are “white” (sauceless), this fabulous fungi-filled one packs more flavor with a triple dose of mushrooms (portobello, shitake and button) on a bed of marinara, cheese and truffle oil, which I like to refer to as the white glove treatment. The spice of the marinara and earthiness of the truffle oil meld beautifully with the mushroom trio. You can also create custom pies (starting at $6.50 for 9’’ or $13.00 for large 16”) from a selection of three different sauces and a variety of fresh toppings. Vezzo offers a small, but choice selection of wines, beers (3 on tap and a few Belgians by the bottle) and classic sodas like ginger beer. They also deliver everyday until 10pm, but the booths are comfortable enough to make you stay put and hold your horses for a few.
Jul 5, 2008
Make the Odyssey to Penelope
Penelope: 159 Lexington Ave. at 30th St. (Murray Hill)
Penelope was the first restaurant I knew in my neighborhood before I moved there. A year before, I had been treated to a last-day lunch there as photo intern for Shape en Español. Little did I know, that it would become my neighborhood staple, my comfort kitchen. Specializing in “homestyle cooking,” Penelope prepares “mom’s recipes” with a veggie-friendly twist all day long. My starred favorites are the Mac & Cheese and Ellie’s Spinach Pie. The cupcakes are also dangerously good and can compete with the likes of Magnolia and New York’s other cream-of-the crop cakes. The light blue and peach walls and wooden paneling provide the perfect stylistic complement to the homespun food, taking a page from June Cleaver. Be prepared that most of the portions, especially the sandwiches, are very heavy-handed. Like mom’s cooking, there are usually plenty of leftovers. Don’t rush, just let it linger and enjoy the homespun goodness. Penelope is usually packed so my advice is to avoid the brunch hour and venture over early on an off night.
Jul 3, 2008
Duty to the Koi
Koi Sushi-Chinatown (address unknown)
A mini panic set in when I got my notice for jury duty in the mail. I was not looking forward to what I thought would be a cruel exercise in the judicial process. I was incredibly nervous about the commitment involved in a trial and having a stranger’s fate potentially lie in my hands. Fortunately, my time with the court system was rather mundane--nothing like Law and Order, more like Anthony Bourdain’s No Reservations. The first day of selection, we were all given an hour and a half lunch, which left me plenty of time to scout out lunch. Had I not been so excited to be outside in the day sunshine, I would have been paying more careful attention to my direction. All I can tell you is that I had one of the best and cheapest meals at Koi Sushi (not to be confused with the upscale, midtown place), a tiny storefront connected to a proportionally tiny mini mall just a short walk from the Centre St. courthouse. Their dirt-cheap lunch special offers two rolls and soup or salad for $6.50. There’s no seating inside and just a few tables outside so unless you are alone I’d opt for take away. Back at the courthouse, my name was never called. After the end of day two, I skipped home smiling and reveling in my great food fortune. If anyone ever discovers the location of my secret Chinatown treasure, please share!
A mini panic set in when I got my notice for jury duty in the mail. I was not looking forward to what I thought would be a cruel exercise in the judicial process. I was incredibly nervous about the commitment involved in a trial and having a stranger’s fate potentially lie in my hands. Fortunately, my time with the court system was rather mundane--nothing like Law and Order, more like Anthony Bourdain’s No Reservations. The first day of selection, we were all given an hour and a half lunch, which left me plenty of time to scout out lunch. Had I not been so excited to be outside in the day sunshine, I would have been paying more careful attention to my direction. All I can tell you is that I had one of the best and cheapest meals at Koi Sushi (not to be confused with the upscale, midtown place), a tiny storefront connected to a proportionally tiny mini mall just a short walk from the Centre St. courthouse. Their dirt-cheap lunch special offers two rolls and soup or salad for $6.50. There’s no seating inside and just a few tables outside so unless you are alone I’d opt for take away. Back at the courthouse, my name was never called. After the end of day two, I skipped home smiling and reveling in my great food fortune. If anyone ever discovers the location of my secret Chinatown treasure, please share!
Pigs and Winopottamuses: The Bourgeois Pig
Bourgeois Pig (East Village) 111 E. 7th St. (bet. 1st Ave. & Ave. A)
I love New York for its transformative powers. Like Alice falling down the rabbit hole or Lucy entering the wardrobe, walking through a doorway can feel like entering a new world. The passport for entry into the ‘The Pig’ is a penchant for wine and an imagination for being in a late 19th century French cabaret (minus the performers). No matter the time of day, the Bourgeois Pig has a diffused, merlot-like glow, easily the backdrop for lounging courtesans, or wine drinkers. The candles, chandeliers and worn velvet and brocade-tufted chairs conspire to create a Baz-Luhrmannesque staging. I’ll admit, I’ve only been to ‘The Pig’ once, on a Tuesday, when all bottles of wine are…steady yourselves…HALF PRICE! In fact, I was so excited about the free-flowing wine that I didn’t venture beyond the heavenly cheese plate. The only negative was the heat and poor air circulation. Sitting in this packed bar on plush furniture on a hot day, I was definitely more sweaty than bourgeois.
I love New York for its transformative powers. Like Alice falling down the rabbit hole or Lucy entering the wardrobe, walking through a doorway can feel like entering a new world. The passport for entry into the ‘The Pig’ is a penchant for wine and an imagination for being in a late 19th century French cabaret (minus the performers). No matter the time of day, the Bourgeois Pig has a diffused, merlot-like glow, easily the backdrop for lounging courtesans, or wine drinkers. The candles, chandeliers and worn velvet and brocade-tufted chairs conspire to create a Baz-Luhrmannesque staging. I’ll admit, I’ve only been to ‘The Pig’ once, on a Tuesday, when all bottles of wine are…steady yourselves…HALF PRICE! In fact, I was so excited about the free-flowing wine that I didn’t venture beyond the heavenly cheese plate. The only negative was the heat and poor air circulation. Sitting in this packed bar on plush furniture on a hot day, I was definitely more sweaty than bourgeois.
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